Under The Tuscan Sun

Under The Tuscan Sun

One town we had not been to in all our trips to Italy was Cortona, the town made famous by Francis Mayes in her book made into a movie called Under the Tuscan Sun.  Part of the birthday trip was to visit this hilltop town.  We have been to several small hilltop towns, and this might be the ‘hilliest’.  There is one street that is relatively flat, and the locals even call it the flat street.

All of the streets are narrow and one-way and the alleys have steps.  All are good for cardio workouts and also for the eye.

Some of the buildings in Cortona are really ancient like below.  The ones with the wooden braces holding up the upper floors are the oldest and are preserved to show the architecture of a thousand years ago.

We had a walking tour of Cortona with an excellent guide.  She (Serena Ricci) gave us the history by explaining it through what life was like in Italy over the years including World War II and after. 

It was great getting a wide view of how culture and religion ‘evolved’ over the centuries.  For instance, the modern Italian woman is very new (last 30-40 years).  Before then, once married, women were expected to stay home, cook, raise children, wear head scarfs, cover-up, and be accompanied by a man-relative when in public.  It’s taken a long time baby!

Medicine has come a long way too.  In Medieval times, the population of Italy, France, and other countries were drastically reduced by the Black Plague.  It was a very gruesome time to live.  Between 30-60% of the population fell victim to the plague and died.  People were very superstitious and they came to believe that the dead needed to leave through a separate door.  Serena explained how the house below had two doors, one now altered into a window.  In it’s day as a door, it was called Death’s Door.  The superstition was that if the dead used the door the living used, the living would fall to the plague too.  Thus, they had a second and separate door.  I guess when you are loosing half the population to a mysterious disease, you can believe in a lot of things no matter how bizarre.

Thanks to science and medicine, the plague is a thing of history.  

We got to enjoy a healthy and pretty Cortona.

Our favorite Cortona restaurant, La Teatro Ristorante, was located off the main drag, a common occurrence for the places we like.  It too attracts you by it’s beauty.

It’s rather elegant as are the ladies in the picture, but not expensive.

We had a good time Under the Tuscan Sun.

Roberto

Old, But Young at Heart

Old, But Young at Heart

Jan arranged a Vespa tour of the Chianti region which is just south of Florence.  None of us drive Harley’s, but, the Vespa’s sounded within the range of the possible.  She found a lovely touring company in Florence who was willing to take us sight unseen - thank you Tuscany Vespa Tours.

TO ENLARGE PHOTOS, Double-click on the photo!

Notice that all the people in the picture are in their twenties and thirties.

They warm you up by a drive by van to the hillsides where they produce chianti wine and olive oil.  The first destination is a small castle where we got a tour of the winery.  The construction of this castle was completed in 1199 (medieval times).

Our wine guide (and driver) was Angus, a relocated english man who moved to Italy for the wine.  He provided probably the best explanation I’ve heard about how to make wine from grapes and the explanation was from an english man?!?!

Once we drank a glass of wine, they figured we were loose enough to drive the Vespas on the curvy mountain roads. I loved the preamble to the instructions - “If you run into anyone or anything, you pay”.  Very simple and complete.  Why does it take at least a page in the U.S. to explain you’re responsible.  BTW - the actual instructions of driving a vespa were also simple yet complete.

I called our group the Professional Vespa Drivers at the top of the castle before we left.

Unfortunately, our guide held us back.  I never got it up to full throttle and had to follow the women.  No passing is allowed which doesn’t seem very Italian.  Shari rode with Fillipo, our Vespa guide.  Jan, Debbie, and I all rode solo.

I’m hoping you are wondering how good the Professional Vespa Drivers are as I’m adding a short movie of us riding in formation (kind of like the Blue Angels).  

As you may have guessed the Professional Vespa Drivers finished first.

Roberto

Lovely Florence

Lovely Florence

There are two places we almost always visit when we come to Italy.  One is Lucca and the other is Florence.  There are some amazing big cities in Italy, but only Florence has the most incredible medieval and renaissance towers, cathedrals, churches, and even an old-world bridge.  It doesn’t hurt that there are lots of photos opportunities.

DOUBLE CLICK (or CLICK) on photo to enlarge

One of the biggest of the historic building is the Florence Cathedral.  It’s official name is Cathedral Santa Marie del Fiori (Saint Mary of the Flowers) which, if you can speak Italian, sounds very good.  It seems to be about 5 blocks long and 3 blocks wide.  It’s pretty hard to capture in one picture.

It took about 140 years to build, which is a bit hard to fathom in the modern world.  The last segment built was the Duomo or dome.  Even back then, the work was contracted out, but, the Duomo was (and is) to be the largest masonry dome in the world.  They could not find a suitable party to build it until Fillipo Brunelleschi came along.  Brunelleschi had no plans and no experience.  But, he had an idea.  He sold his idea using a simple egg.  He told those in charge that he would reveal his plans if any one of them could make the egg stand upright on the table.  After they all failed, he took the egg and smashed the bottom of it on the table’s surface, causing the egg to stand upright.  Although the judges protested that they themselves could have done the same, he slyly responded saying that if they knew what he knew, they could also build the dome.

To get around, we walked and walked.  If you have a Fitbit as we do, it’s relatively easy to achieve your daily goal of 10,000 steps by lunch time.  It’s not that there are not cars, but, finding parking spots is a big challenge.  And the cars are a little on the small side.  It’s hard to imagine the leg room of this cute little car.  I think the car would fit in the dumpster that is right behind it.

During World War II, the allied forces basically won over Italy from the south to the north.  As the allies neared Florence, the Germans left and blew up all bridges except Ponte Vecchio (meaning ‘Old Bridge’).  It was last rebuilt in 1345, not a bad life for a bridge.

Speaking of vecchio, Debbie and Jan went to the museums, but, the senior (vecchio) members of the group did not.  

We all did the Hop On Hop Off bus to see highlights of Florence.  My favorite stop remains the view tourists see from Piazza Michelangelo.  I hope that the renaissance is still taught in school history so that my wonderful grandkids learn what Michelangelo and Da Vinci (both of Florence) did for art and humanity.  The park where millions look into the old city of Florence is named for Michelangelo.  I love the view and think it is loved by many.

Goodbye Lucca!

Goodbye Lucca

Music is a big part of the daily life in Lucca.  Not only do they have opera on a nightly basis, we found out we were a year late to see the Rolling Stones.  Being late by a whole summer, we settled for a second opera.  I will say the singers have amazing voices.

Our bed and breakfast place was located close to the tower with the trees on top.  It’s a nice 10 minute climb to the top and worth the effort if you enjoy commanding views.  ‘My’ three wild women enjoyed the view and the wind in their hair.

There is a drawing on the wall of LaRomea, our bed and breakfast showing what Lucca looked like to visitors such as overly optimistic conquering armies in medieval and renaissance times.  Cliff Notes:  In Italy, medieval times were from 1200-1400 A.D., and the renaissance times were from 1400 to about 1600.  I would not want to live during either period, but greatly enjoy stories of knights, castles, Da Vinci, and Michelangelo and all that come with them.

In any event, Lucca was a city state with it’s own army for centuries and had to defend itself.  The old city where we always stay has a continuous wall that is 3 miles in circumference.  The drawing shows a moat outside the wall.  

So Lucca was a city with a moat, not just a castle with a moat.  It helps explain why Lucca was never successfully conquered.  Remember this is a wall with a moat, not just a wall.

The treed tower was the lookout tower and the lucky soldiers stationed atop it were to warn the Lucca army of possible invasion.  Looking at this view from the tower, they must have had incredible eyesight.

Outside the wall, grass has replaced the moat and visitors invade the city daily for the beautiful simplicity and relaxation it offers.  

The Lucca part of our trip has been extra special.  We stayed in a bed and breakfast place recommended by Dave Nelson and Pam Gossett of SunRiver.  The place is old, like many, but, the hosts treated us like family.  The senior member of their family, Lilly, was the breakfast cook and a good one at that.  Lilly told me she was a 100 years old to make it easy to compliment her on her looks and age.  She is witty, pleasant, helpful, and kind.  And her beautiful and smart daughter, Gaia (Guy-ya) ran the place with the help of the rest of the family.  Lilly often reminded me of my dear mother, Irma (also an Italian, also witty, pleasant, helpful, and kind).

Goodbye Lilly and Lucca!

A Day in Cinque Terra

A Day in Cinque Terra

Cinque Terra (meaning ‘Five Lands’) is a National Park not far from Lucca.  Some of it’s beauty comes from the five coastal towns that are part of this special park.  Until recently, you could only get to Cinque Terra by boat or train.  By train, much of the route is under the mountain except when the train surfaces at one of the five towns.

REMEMBER - If you want to see larger versions of the pictures, double click on the picture.

This trip, we took the train to Monterosso which is quite the beach town with two large beach areas.  Within a couple minutes of the train station is the first beach.

We planned for a sunny day, but our first views didn’t match our plans.  

When in Italy, I like to see things as they are and also how they were.  Centuries ago, Monterosso and the other four towns had to defend against pirates so some of the ancient looking buildings had a different purpose in years gone by.

We came to see two of the towns, so after a lunch of seafood, we headed off to the trail that connects Monterosso and Vernazza. 

Between the towns is a little over 1 1/2 miles by foot.  But, we knew of the trail conditions.  Locals take a little less than two hours to walk it - that should have told us something.  

It was more like continually climbing and descending stairs on a very steep mountain side.  One of our group has balance issues, another is afraid of heights, and as a group, we were the oldest on that day.

We did eventually make it - 4 hours later.  I think that about 0.4 miles an hour!

Two said they would never do it again, but, all loved the views of Vernazza, especially when we arrived in town. 

It definitely was an unforgettable day!

First Days in Italy 2018

Our trip to Italy 2018 started out the morning of Labor Day.  We did labor to get to our destination having one fight canceled and another delayed such that we missed a flight.  Weather was a major problem and the longest flight reminded me of flying to fire assignments in a small 4 seater airplane in a wind storm.  There were lots of white knuckled passengers.  

We arrived in Shari’s favorite Italian town, Lucca, a little worn but so happy.  The last leg of the trip was a 40 minute car ride after midnight with the owner of our new home.  

Later that  same day, our good friends Debbie Flory and Jan Studer arrived after they too had a delayed flight.  The four of us will attempt to speak Italian, eat Italian, and live Italian for the next three weeks.  

I might even have to claim three wives, temporarily of course, for better and for worse.

REMEMBER, if you want to see the pictures in a LARGER version, double click on the picture.

Lucca is Shari's favorite Italian town, so the the trip starts in Lucca.  Even the simple things

seem bella (beautiful).

Simple things seem special as well.

Like the bakery and the wine store.

And riding a bike along the Lucca walls.

365 days a year, there is the music of hometown 'boy' Puccini.  The latest performance was Madame Butterfly which we watched outdoors last night.  Notice the special balcony seats behind the singers.

There are so many views and things for a camera to take in . . . 

I think all the ladies are finding Lucca to their liking!

Our trip to Italy 2018 started out the morning of Labor Day.  We did labor to get to our destination having one fight canceled and another delayed such that we missed a flight.  Weather was a major problem and the longest flight reminded me of flying to fire assignments in a small 4 seater airplane in a wind storm.  There were lots of white knuckled passengers.  

We arrived in Shari’s favorite Italian town, Lucca, a little worn but so happy.  The last leg of the trip was a 40 minute car ride after midnight with the owner of our new home.  

Later that  same day, our good friends Debbie Flory and Jan Studer arrived after they too had a delayed flight.  The four of us will attempt to speak Italian, eat Italian, and live Italian for the next three weeks.  I might even have to claim three wives, temporarily of course, for better and for worse.

I’m going to try something different on the first post.  Lucca is well known for classical music and also attracts major modern acts like the Rolling Stones (last summer, darn it).  So, I made a short slideshow accompanied by some classical music that seems to fit the slides.  It is likely to be my solo effort as it takes extra time, the editing is limited, and I don’t know for sure that it will work.

My fingers are crossed and double knotted.  REMEMBER to have your sound volume on.